пятница, 3 февраля 2017 г.

The Kestos bra | The Nylon Swish

Whilst researching the history of undergarments for my “1930s
blog post, I discovered that cup sizes for brassieres weren’t
introduced until 1935. This led me to think more about the development
of bras up until this point in time, and how the bra progressed from the
‘mono-bosom’ shape, made famous by the Edwardians, to having separate
cups. I didn’t have to look for long before discovering that Kestos were
one of the very first brands to manufacture bras with separate cups.

ap-frame-1391kestos-lingerie-art-deco-advert-1930s




Kestos was a British brand that was founded by a Polish designer
named Rosaline Kiln in 1925. Kiln allegedly started experimenting with
two hankerchiefs, and came up with the famous ‘Kestos bra’, which became
the first bra with two defined cups. Kiln, however was not the first
person to invent a bra by manipulating hankies, Caresse Crosby also
created a ‘bra’ back in 1910. Although this design bore some
resemblances to the Kestos bra that would come years later, it did not
have individual cups and never really took off.


Caresse Crosby's hankerchief bra design
Caresse Crosby’s hankerchief bra design
The Kestos design was considered revolutionary at the time as it was
made of two overlapping triangular cups, shaped by light darts and
straps that crossed over on the back and attached with buttons at the
front. The style of bra suited the fashions of the time, creating a
natural shaped bosom, and allowed for women to wear dresses with lower
cut backs.


Although this design was clearly a huge step forward for women’s
bras, I can’t help but think that ladies with larger busts must really
have struggled as there is no way that such thin straps and two pieces
of flimsy fabric would have supported their breasts.


Photo of bra from Dorothea's Vintage Closet
Photo of bra from Dorothea’s Vintage Closet
Kestos regularly emphasised through their advertising the need for
women to have the “line”, as well as “control”. As with the majority of
old adverts (and in indeed modern adverts), Kestos drew on the woman’s
body insecurities as well as the fashion, which dictated that a woman
should have a high breastline.


screen-shot-2017-02-02-at-9-03-07-pm


The popularity of the new design continued to grow, and as such,
“knock-offs” became the inevitable, as you can see from the below advert
by Scandale.


screen-shot-2017-02-02-at-7-40-22-pm


Interestingly, the Kestos style bra has regained popularity in recent years, with indie designers such as Hopeless Lingerie drawing strong inspiration from the original designs. rosemary_bralette_0834bfe7-dd1e-4cdb-83ff-d37d9fba134b_1024x1024


Although I couldn’t wear this style of bra for practical reasons, I
think the delicate style of the straps and the interesting shapes they
create on the body are incredibly feminine.


Elinor 




The Kestos bra | The Nylon Swish

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